Exploring the Ancient Rock Art at Lepalala Wilderness Reserve
During a recent stay at Noka Camp, one of the Lepogo Lodges situated in the beautiful Lepalala Wilderness Reserve just 3 hours north of Johannesburg in South Africa, we were lucky enough to visit some historical rock art and learn all about the San People’s history and traditions behind these wonderful pieces of history.
The Rock Art at Mdoni Shelter
The San People, the earliest hunter-gatherers in southern Africa, called this area home thousands of years before the arrival of Bantu-speaking people and Europeans. Evidence of their cave paintings in Namibia dates back over 27,000 years, but some researchers believe the San have been around for at least 100,000 years, making them the oldest human race still in existence. Lepalala hosts 13 known archaeologically valuable sites of various ages, with many more likely yet to be discovered. One of the most spectacular is the Mdoni shelter rock art, located less than 100 meters from Noka Lodge. Another notable historic site within the reserve is the Melora Hill Iron Age site. These paintings are culturally significant and crucial for conservation. Images of black rhinos in four sites within the northern Waterberg indicate that this area was historically within their range, providing the only evidence of their presence in the absence of 19th-century written records.
The Rock Art at Mdoni Shelter in Lepalala Wilderness reserve
Understanding Hunter-Gatherer Rock Art
Knowledge about San beliefs primarily comes from 19th-century San who shared their way of life with European scholars, and from contemporary San in the Kalahari and Namibia. These beliefs form the foundation for interpreting rock art. Unlike Western art, hunter-gatherer rock art is created on rugged rock surfaces, not smooth, portable canvases. It is a collection of images made by different painters over long periods, often appearing as a jumble of randomly placed images to first-time viewers. Paintings may depict 'scenes,' but often images are placed next to each other based on their potency rather than content.
San rock art was believed to hold spiritual power, with ingredients like ochre, blood, and fat used in the paint considered potent. Images placed atop one another were thought to enhance the potency of the image below. While many assume the art records everyday life, research suggests it was primarily a religious or spiritual practice. Larger game animals were painted due to their special status, as their meat and fat could sustain the entire group. These animals also played a significant role in San rituals, with dance rhythms named after them. To the San, these images represented spirit animals and people in the spirit world, akin to the spiritual significance of the Sistine Chapel's paintings rather than a mere beautiful artwork like the Mona Lisa.
Dating Rock Art
Dating rock art is challenging, especially in Limpopo Province, where no dating has been carried out. Southern African hunter-gatherer rock art ranges widely in age. The Apollo 11 painted stone from Namibia is around 27,500 years old, while paintings in KwaZulu Natal from the 1860s depict cattle raiders on horseback. Radiocarbon dating rock art is difficult due to contamination, but indirect dating of rock flakes incorporated into archaeological deposits can provide age ranges. Art depicting horses or soldiers dates to post-1800s foreign influences. The Mdoni and other rock art in the Lapalala reserve likely date from 1000 to 150 years ago, created by multiple generations of the San people. As rock art ages, it degrades, making some images hard to discern. Lepogo Lodges is honoured to help protect these sites and contribute to their story.
Rules When Visiting Rock Art
Do not touch the art with your hands or any objects, as oils and fats from your skin accelerate decay and complicate dating.
Never throw water or other liquids on the images, as this is illegal and rapidly destroys the art.
Avoid stirring up dust, which can settle on the art and form an opaque crust.
Never remove stone tools or other artefacts from rock art sites.
Follow the wilderness motto: "Leave nothing but your footsteps behind."
By following these guidelines, visitors can help preserve these invaluable cultural and historical treasures for future generations.