On my first trip to Kenya, at 18 years old on my gap year I had the fortune of ending up being invited to a Kenyan expats 40th birthday on the island of Lamu. I’d never heard of it before and as my friend and i bumped along on the 8 hour or so bus ride from Mombasa we thought we were just heading to another beach destination.

However, what we found was one of the worlds best kept (almost) hidden secrets and to this day one of my favourite places I’ve ever been. Watching the donkeys carting up the party’s booze supplies from the wooden dhows as we sipped the Peponi Hotel’s signature sundowner the ‘Old Pal"‘ while children played on the beach was like going back in time and the party itself set in one of the islands private villas was attended not just by many mainland Kenyans but also the islands resident and visiting guests comprising of artists, hippies, famous actresses and singers. A melting pot of culture and backgrounds, all drawn to this beautiful island for its simplicity and laid back, timeless nature.

It was over 20 years until I got to visit it again for a friends wedding and barely a thing had changed, it was just as beautiful, untouched and laid back as I remembered. As the dhow boats sailed us back at sunset from the wedding venue on Manda to the reception in Shela, the sails opened to release thousands of petals which floated away in the breeze and a local band started up on one of the boats. It was one of the magical experiences I have ever had.

The island remains close to my heart and I am reluctant to let anyone in on the secret of this very special place.

However, for years there has been the treat of a multi-billion pound port being built here which would change the nature of the island forever and so, it is a must see for anyone looking for an off the beaten track, authentic African beach experience (and who wouldn’t want that!).

A magical island which whisks you back in time and where time stands still while you watch old dhow boats sail by and donkeys carrying loads pass in front of you, not a car to be seen.

Overview

The Archipelago of Lamu is one of six coastal counties in Kenya and Lamu island is just a part of this great county. The main islands of the archipelago is Lamu itself, Manda island and Pate which is only accessible at high tide and generally not visited by tourists.

The majority of local residents are Swahili-speaking people of Arabic descent and islamic faith and the island has hosted Muslim religious festivals since the 19th century. As well as this strong Arabic influence is also Swahili, Persian, Indian and European influences which creates the inspiring and unique style that is Lamu.

Until recently as small motorbikes have grown in popularity there were no vehicles in Lamu aside from a tractor, an ambulance and the district commissioners landcover.

Lamu Old Town

Lamu Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site with its wealth of beautiful, historic buildings built in coral stone and mangrove timber with the famous Lamu carved wooden doors. Founded in the 14th century it is thought to be the most well preserved Swahili settlement in EAST AFRICA.

What also sets Lamu Old Town apart from other Swahili settlements along the Kenyan coast is that its been continuously inhabited for 700 years unlike others which have been left abandoned at different periods of time.

The town has a blend of cultures, historical old forts can be found next to to elegant rooftop cafes and the labrynith of narrow cobbled streets are home to shops filled with Lamu’s famous, beautiful silver jewellery, as well as exotic materials you can pick up to be tailored into garments.

The old harbour is worth a stroll to as well as the museum and fort.

Lamu Museaum/Fort was built by the Sultan of Pate between 1813 - 1821 and was later used as a prison from 1910 to 1984 when it was then handed over to the National Museums of Kenya and turned into a library. Exhibitions here focus on boat building and domestic life as well as the renowned carved doors and traditional silver jewrellry. There are also exhibits housing artefacts from Swahili ruins and from the three tribes that reside in the northwest of Kenya, the Pokomo fishermen, Boni hunters and Maasai like Orma tribe famous for their animal husbandry. Guides are available to show you around for tips and make sure you ask in the museum gift shop for the “special posters” made each year for the museum, they are a great souvenir to take home with you.

Shela

This wonderfully quiet and peaceful part of the worlds has a cool cultural mix with locals and expats living peacefully alongside one another. Linked to Lamu Town by a coastal walkway its a little cleaner and quieter area favoured by expats which has meant that the more western tailored restaurants can also be found here as well as a 12km white sand beach, views across to Manda island and plenty of dhow boats ready to take you on a sunset cruise.

Shela beach is 12km of pristine coast where you are guaranteed to find an isolated spot. Swimming is possible however there are places with strong currents so check with your accommodation before going for a dip to make sure you stay safe. Alternatively there are lots of options to rent a boat or dhow for the day to go fishing or swimming with the security of a knowledgable captain at your side.

There’s a variety of villas to rent if you are travelling with family or as part of a group, as well as a selection of guest houses. Below are just three of my favourite.

For the Yoga enthusiast and the more budget conscious traveller, there is the Banana House and Wellness Centre . Yoga lessons are available twice a day at 9am and 5pm and Monica the owner also organises the annual Lamu Yoga Festival. Banana house has a wide variety of rooms from the single travellers to family suites and even a penthouse with all accommodation having access to the swimming pool.

Alternatively, there is Jua House, a 7 room bed and breakfast with traditional Swahili woodcraft and two roof top terraces with views out to the dunes, the sea and across the islands of Lamu and Manda. Located in the village of Shela, its just a 10 minute stroll through the narrow streets to the beach.

Last but not least is the famous Peponi Hotel, a visit to Lamu is not complete without a stay, meal at the restaurant or drink at the bar visited by many a famous artist, musician and actor as well as the best place on the island for some expat gossip. A part of island lie since the 1930’s, this digital detox hotel (no televisions or telephones in the rooms however wifi is available) is just 28 rooms, right on the beach with the bar serving up their signature Old Pal cocktails, the perfect sundowner to cool you off as you watch the dhow boats sail past and watch Lamu life around you. The hotel also offers complimentary daily water taxis between Shela and Lamu Old Town.

Manda Island

Opposite Lamu and just a 10 minute dhow boat ride away is Manda island and a number of modern and luxury resorts. Do note though as its not a village, there is nothing else around apart from the hotels and beautiful beaches although Lamu is within easy reach.

If staying on Manda then its well worth visiting the ruins of Takwa which was once a small trading town abandoned in the 17th century, however the ruins of the grand mosque can still be seen and beautiful baobab trees stand guard over a sacred tomb which locals come to visit to pray for rain.

Enjoy a tasty lunch at Majlis Resort, indulge in sundowners at the Floating Bar in the mangroves of Manda Bay accessible only by boat or sit back and watch a movie at Diamond Beach Village who show art-house movies and serve up delicious brick oven pizzas at 7:30pm every Friday.

Matondoni

Matondoni is a peaceful little fishing village located in Lamu’s northwest and rarely visited by tourists. However, if you have the time to make the 6km trek with a guided walk either on foot or by donkey then it is the best spot to see how the coasts famous dhow boats are made. Alternatively, you can also take a dhow boat ride there and depending on sea conditions they will sometimes take you on to Kipungani for a swim and then loop back and drop you back in Lamu Town.

Lamu’s Donkey Sanctuary

With over 3000 donkeys in Lamu and being the islands main form of transport, the UK based charity Donkey Protection Trust of Sidmouth established a donkey sanctuary in Lamu to help improve the lives of injured and retired animals as well as the islands population as a whole.

Visitors can visit for free to learn about the great work they do here and donations are encouraged to help the running of the facility to care for these hardworking animals.

Dhow Trips in Lamu

Your accommodation will be able to book your a dhow boat at your leisure, there are certainly plenty to choose from. You can choose between fishing trips, lunches out on the water or sailings to see other areas, however one of my favourites is to ask for some local veggie samosas to be supplied, they are delicious in Lamu and some sundowner drinks and head off for a sunset sail and sundowners. The best way to end the day and if you fancy a swim you can always jump in from the boat, however check with the captain first as the current can be very strong in places.

Places to Stay in Lamu Archpelago

Most of the below I have already mentioned and there are plenty more, but here’s my top picks of where to stay in the Lamu Archipelago:

The Red Pepper House - With only 5 accommodations overlooking the sea and situated on the other side of Lamu Old Town to Shela, if Lamu already wasn’t quite out of the way enough for you, then Red Pepper House is the ultimate getaway. Situated between the beach and a primary forest, the best thing to do here is nothing at all. Relax and watch the world go by, enjoy sundowners round the fire with fellow guests under the stars or go for a walk in the woods to escape the daytime sun.

Banana House, Shela - The perfect spot for the yoga enthusiast with their daily yoga classes, guided meditations and access to the Natural Lamu Beauty Spa. The whole property has been designed for plenty of moments of peace and reflection. A great spot to take some down time after an activity filled safari.

Jua House Shela - Located in the middle of Shela village, this new bed and breakfast is just a 10 minute walk away from the beach, Peponi hotel. Clean, comfortable and great guest service at affordable prices.

Peponi Hotel, Shela - Lamu’s most renowned hotel, set on the beach front and beautifully in keeping with its surroundings. The bar terrace is the perfect place to watch the world of Lamu go about its business and the swimming pool is the perfect place to cool off in the heat of the day.

Majlis Resort, Manda - Barefoot luxury with a beautiful beachfront location and breathtaking views across to Lamu island, Majlis Resort is a boutique hotel with just 39 rooms and state of the art facilities including two bars, two swimming pools, an activity centre and variety of water sports.

Manda Bay - A small, boutique lodge on the northern end of Manda, this secluded location is the best spot to switch off from the world and take some time to yourself. ‘No shoes, no news’ is their moto. However there is still plenty to keep you busy should you choose with a number of water sports activities including wakeboards, air chairs, banana boats, SUP’s, fishing and sailing as well as a swimming pool, library, exercise room, bar and wifi should you choose to use it.

Mikes Camp, Kiwayu - Off the beaten track even for Lamu, few tourists know about this special hidden gem and Kenya’s residents like to try to keep it that way. With only 7 unique Banda’s and the only accommodation on the island, Mike’s Camp on Kiwayu is a modern day Robinson Crusoe experience. Kiwayu is one of the many unspoilt islands of the Lamu Archipelago with beautiful white sand beach on one side and the creek system on the other all set within the Kiuaga Marine National Reserve.

Places to Eat & Drink in Lamu

Peponi Hotel - Offering up a good selection of menus inspired by local cuisine with influences from Japanese, Italian, Swahili and South-East Asia. Produce is all sourced locally and salad greens being grown on site. Vegan and vegetarian options are also available. Choose from mouthwatering starters such as lime & chill buttered crab claws, chili salt calamari tempura and camembert somosas with homemade sweet chilli jam with an array of sushi, seafood, pasta and Swahili dishes for mains.

Majlis Resort - If you’re not already staying on Manda then then head over on a dhow boat and have a long relaxing lunch at the Majlis resort. Open for lunch and dinner to in-house as well as external guests and offering up a wide selection of options including soups, pastas, risotto, fish, meat, vegetarian and desserts.

Stopover - Serving up delicious samosas and tuna steaks, the Stopover is a well priced casual restaurant cooking up the best local Lamu ingredients.

Rangaleni Cafe - A small local cafe with cheap chapatis and stews.

For more on Lamu or if you would like help with a holiday of a life time to Kenya then get in touch!