In May 2024 I had the privalege of joining a group of fellow safari specialists on a trip to Noka Camp in the Waterberg Mountains, just three hours north of Johannesburg.

Rather then change terminal and have to wait for an adjoining flight, the drive was straightforward, allowing us to land, jump in the car and get straight into our trip, enjoying the beauitful landscapes along the way.

Upon arrival at the Lepalala Wilderness Reserve, our guide from Noka Camp, Brendan, greeted us with cold towels and a refreshing drink. We then continued our journey through the stunning landscape, which took about half an hour to reach the camp.

Noka Camp is breathtaking, set over a valley with incredible views and a river running below. The camp is designed to blend seemlesly with its surroundings, with only 1% of the camp touching the ground, ensuring minimal environmental impact. The walkways tot he rooms are lined with solar panels, providing the camp with its electricity and showcasing its commitment to sustainability.

What sets Noka Camp apart is its unique non-for-profit status. It is possibly the only safari lodge in Africa that directs all its profits back into conservation efforts.

The rooms at Noka are exceptional, high-tech yet cosy and comfortable, and incredibly spacious. Each room features a seating area with a coffee station and minibar, a desk, a fireplace and large floor-to-ceiling glass doors opening to a balcony with a glass bottom, offering spectacular views of the valley below. The open plan layout then leads into a bedroom area with the same floor-to-ceiling doors and sweeping views which then leads into the bathroom area with a sunken bath . Additionally each room has a plunge pool, making it easy to spend an entire day in comfort and tranquility. The lighting and various room functions are controlled via an Ipad, adding a touch of modern convenience.

For lunch, I enjoyed an incredible sushi platter with a glass of crisp rose wine and a view you could look at all day. In the afternoon, we embarked on our first game drive. One of the highlights was encountering white rhino’s with their horns intact - a sadly rare sigh in South Africa, where many conservancies remove rhinos horns to protect them from poachers. it was a priviledge to observe the rhino’s natural behaviour in such a relaxed setting.

We also spotted a pair of brother cheetah’s scent-marking tees and walking calmly along the road in-front of us. Brendan and the team surprised us with a wonderful spot for sunset drinks, where tables were set up with an array of drinks and snacks so that we could toast the setting sun with stunning views over the Lepalala Wilderness reserve.

We concluded the day with drinks around the fire back at the camp and a sumptuous dinner before tucking up in the super comfortable beds. The rooms even have motion dectectors so if you need to get out of bed at night as soon as your feet touch the ground some low level lighting comes on so that you can find your way to the bathroom with minimal effort.

Day 2: Lions, Rhino’s & Ancient Rock Art

The next day started early with a 5:30am wake-up call. We gathered for coffee and tea at the bar in the main area before heading out on our morning game drive. Our first sighting was a magnificent male lion with a dark mane, walking right up the road and passing less than a meter from our safari vehicle. Watching him stroll down the road behind us with the stunning views was an incredible experience and did a good job of waking us all up!

Throughout the morning we encountered a variety of wildlife, including rock hyraxes playing in the trees, giraffes, herds of buffalo, wildebeest, and more white rhinos. One of the most memorable moments was seeing a baby white rhino, just a few weeks old, moving through the grasslands with its mother. The mother, being protective led the little one away but we still had an amazing view of them departing. It’s always an extra special sighting seeing a young one of an endagered species, giving hope to the conservation efforts to protect these incredible animals.

We returned to camp around 9am and enjoyed a fantastic breakfast, the set up was beautiful with an array of meats, cheeses, yogurts and such. I also opted for the delicious smoked trout and avocado dish from the menu. After breakfast we had some free time to enjoy our rooms. I took a swim in the “refreshing” plunge pool and soaked in the serenity of the area.

For those interested in staying active, Noka Camp has a small gym area with a treadmill, cycle bike, and yoga mats providing a perfect space for excercise or mindfulness away from the main areas.

Although not needed after such a wonderful breakfast, we still went back for a light and refreshing lunch of panko prawn salad, a perfect way to stay fuelled for the afternoon game drive. The food at Noka Camp is plentiful, ensuring you never go hungry.

Our afternoon game drive including another sighting of a male lion resting in the shade of some bushes to escape the heat, you could have driven past and never known he was there, they are so well camoflagued but Brendan’s well trained eye’s spotted him as we approached. We also visited some ancient roack art which was fascinating. It’s a short stroll from the road, however you have to cross a stream and lots of boulders so it’s only for those steady on their feet.

The site of the rock art was used for various rituals, including trance dances. These intense, prolonged dances often led to physical exhaustion and hyperventilation, sometimes causing hallucinations. The paint for the artwork was made from natural materials like ochre and crushed eggshells and blood. The process of making the paint was as sacred as the painting itself, involving individuals of high status, such as shamans. These rituals included communicating with spirits, healing, and expelling evil spirits.

After exploring the rock art, we visited Melote House, an exclusive-use property on the Lepalala Wilderness reserve, also owned by Lepogo Lodges. This modern, high-tech residence is ideal for families or groups of friends seeking a private safari experience.

On our way back we were treated to a night game drive which included some adolescent male lions playing together, a chameleon, and an owl illuminated by the spotlight.

Day 3: Lion Cubs, Cheetah Tracking, and a Heartfelt Farewell

Our third and final day at Noka Camp began with another early start. Despite the early hour, the promise of another extraordinary game drive made it worthwhile. This particular drive turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences I’ve had on safari.

We encountered a group of adolescent male lions, the same ones from the previous night, around a year old and playing together. Their antics led them to stumble across two white rhino’s. The lions, curious and bold approached the rhino’s, testing their boundaries. However, the rhino, well aware of the lion's presence, were fairly unfazed this evening, going back to grazing the grass and taking a few steps to chase the lions off if they got a little too close. Witnessing this interaction between two of Africa’s Big Five was extraordinary, especially as they were completely unfazed by our presence. We watched this fascinating behavior for about 45 minutes before the young lions moved on and came across a low-hanging branch, where they continued their antics, climbing and jumping in the morning light. It was a beautiful and special moment to observe.

During our game drives we learned about the conservation efforts of the Lepalala Wilderness area. Some of the animals are collared with a GPS so that they can be monitored for safety and research. This led to a wonderful on foot experience as one of the collared cheetah’s who had not been seen for a few days was showing to be close to the camp. Brendan first left us in the car as he went towards the cheetah to check her position and then came back to fetch us and walk us in. It’s always an incredible expereince to be on foot close to Africa’s incredible animals, far more exhilirating being away from the veicle and amongst the wild rather then just observing it. We got within 15 metres or so and watched her for a while, she then got up and we noticed she had a limp so Brenden moved us out so that she didn’t feel a need to move as she would be more wary of us with her injury. They also reported it to the resident vet. This team only intervenes in cases with endagered or vulnerable species or where the injuy is man-made such as a snare or injury due to the reserves fences, ensuring a balance between conservation and natural processes.

After our encounter with the cheetah we walked to a beautiful area alongside a river with rapids, the same one that flows through the valley underneath camp. It’s a stunning spot often used to set up bush breakfast for guests.

Back at camp we enjoyed another delightful breakfast, complete with champagne this time before gathering our bags and preparing to leave. The staff gave us a heartfelt send-off with singing and waving, marking the end of an incredible stay.

I highly recommend Noka Camp for anyone interested in conservation, luxury and exceptional wildlife sightings in a serene environment. With only a few cars on the reserev at one time, the experience is intimate and exclusive. The friendly staff, great food and proximity to Johannesburg make it a perfect getaway. I hope to return to Noka Camp one day with my husband and family, especially once they have set up the much anticipate pangolin conservation project bringing much needed awareness and support to these endagered animals and a fantastic opportunity for guests to see these incredible rare animals. They are one of very few species i’m still yet to see on safari!

After our stay at Noka Camp we headed to the beautiful Marataba Luxury Lodges, read all about our stay here.